Smoky Tomato Jam

Method

1. This makes about 1½ cups, twelve 2-tablespoon servings. Put a small plate in the freezer, then heat the oil in a wide, heavy 3-quart saucepan over medium heat.
2. Cook the onion with ½ tsp of the salt for 4 minutes until soft and translucent. Add the garlic, ginger, paprika, cumin and pepper flakes and stir 30 seconds until fragrant.
3. Add the tomatoes, sugar and vinegar and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Lower the heat to medium-low so the jam bubbles steadily.
4. Cook 55 to 65 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes at first and constantly in the last 15, until it is thick, dark brick red and glossy. A spoon dragged across the bottom of the pot should leave a trench that holds for 2 seconds.
5. Put a dab on the frozen plate for 30 seconds and push it with a finger: if it wrinkles, it is done. Off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and the remaining ½ tsp salt.
6. Cool 20 minutes, then spoon into clean jars. Refrigerate up to 3 weeks or freeze up to 6 months.

Food safety. This is a refrigerator jam, not a canning recipe: tomato acidity varies, so do not can it without a tested recipe, and do not store it at room temperature.