Seared Scallops, Cauliflower Purée, Caper Butter

Method

1. Pull the small tough side muscle off each scallop, then pat them dry on all sides. Set them on a paper-towel-lined plate, uncovered, in the fridge while you make the purée.
2. Combine the cauliflower, milk, 1 cup water, garlic and 1 tsp Diamond Crystal kosher salt in a saucepan. Simmer, partly covered, over medium-low 12 to 15 minutes, until a knife slips through a floret with no resistance.
3. Drain, saving the liquid. Blend the cauliflower with 2 tbsp butter and ½ cup of the liquid for a full minute, until silky (add more liquid by the spoonful if it is stiff), and keep it warm in a covered pot.
4. Season the scallops on both sides with ¾ tsp salt and black pepper. Heat a 12-inch stainless or cast-iron skillet over high for 2 minutes, add the oil, and wait until it shimmers and just starts to smoke.
5. Lay the scallops in flat with a finger's width between them (or sear in two batches if they crowd), and leave them alone for 90 seconds, until the underside is deep golden brown. Flip, add 2 tbsp butter, drop the heat to medium-high, and baste with a spoon 60 to 90 seconds, until springy to the touch, opaque at the edges and barely translucent in the center (about 125°F), then move them to a plate.
6. Return the pan to medium heat and cook the capers in the butter 30 seconds, until they pop and crisp at the edges. Off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and chives.
7. Spoon the purée onto plates, set the scallops on top, and spoon the caper butter over.

Food safety. Scallops are seared to a barely translucent center (about 125°F). USDA recommends 145°F. Medium-rare is a chef's preference. For a fully cooked scallop, add 1 to 2 minutes after the flip.