Roasted Chicken Stock

Method

1. This makes about 3 quarts, six 2-cup servings. Heat the oven to 425°F, toss the wings with the oil on a rimmed sheet pan, and roast 40 minutes, turning once, until deep golden brown.
2. Put the onions, carrots and celery on a second rimmed sheet pan so they roast instead of steam, smear the tomato paste over them, and roast both pans 20 more minutes until the paste darkens to brick red.
3. Move the wings and vegetables to an 8-quart stockpot. Heat 1 cup of the water until steaming, pour it onto the sheet pans to scrape up the browned bits, add that to the pot, and cover everything with the rest of the cold water.
4. Bring slowly to a bare simmer over medium heat, about 30 minutes, skimming the gray foam during the first 20. Reduce the heat to low so the surface only trembles (180 to 190°F), and add the garlic, peppercorns, bay and herbs.
5. Simmer uncovered for 4 hours, topping up with water if the bones peek out. Do not stir, and do not let it boil.
6. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into shallow containers without pressing the solids, then set them in an ice bath until the stock reaches 70°F, within 2 hours. Refrigerate overnight.
7. Lift off the solid fat cap (save it for roasting potatoes). The stock should jiggle like soft gelatin; refrigerate up to 4 days or freeze up to 3 months in 1-cup portions, unsalted.

Food safety. Cool stock fast: reach 70°F within 2 hours and 41°F within 6 hours, in shallow containers, never as one big pot on the counter. Use within 4 days, and bring to a full boil when reheating.