Ricotta Gnocchi with Brown Butter & Sage

Method

1. Drain the ricotta in a paper-towel-lined sieve over a bowl for at least 30 minutes, until it is as thick as cream cheese.
2. Stir the drained ricotta, egg, Parmigiano, 1 tsp salt, nutmeg, lemon zest and the black pepper together. Fold in the flour with a spatula until a soft, slightly tacky dough forms; do not knead.
3. Bring 3 quarts of water and 3 tbsp salt to a boil, then lower to a gentle simmer. Roll one grape-size test piece of dough, poach it 2 minutes, and taste; if it frays, work 2 tbsp flour into the dough.
4. Dust the counter generously with flour. Divide the dough into four, roll each into a ¾-inch rope with floured hands, and cut into 1-inch pieces.
5. Cook the gnocchi in two batches at a gentle simmer, 2 to 3 minutes each, until they float and feel springy. Lift them out with a slotted spoon onto a floured sheet pan in one layer.
6. Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat and add the sage. Swirl 3 to 4 minutes, until the foam settles and the milk solids turn pale gold.
7. Slide in the gnocchi in one layer and cook over medium heat 1½ to 2 minutes per side, until golden. Take the pan off the heat, squeeze in the juice of half the lemon, and serve with more Parmigiano and black pepper.