Pueblo Green Chile Queso

Method

1. Toss the shredded Monterey Jack and cheddar with the cornstarch in a bowl until every shred is dusted.
2. Melt the butter in a heavy 3-quart saucepan over medium heat and cook the onion with a pinch of salt for 5 minutes, until soft and translucent. Stir in the garlic and cumin for 30 seconds.
3. Add the evaporated milk and chiles and bring to a bare simmer, with tiny bubbles at the edge only, then drop the heat to low.
4. Add the cheese a big handful at a time, whisking until each addition has melted before adding the next, about 6 minutes in all.
5. Stir in the lime juice, taste, and add salt only if it needs it. The queso should coat a spoon and fall off in a thick ribbon.
6. Pour into a warm bowl, or a small slow cooker set on warm, top with cilantro and serve with the chips.
7. To make ahead, refrigerate up to 4 days, then reheat in a saucepan over low heat with a splash of milk, whisking until steaming hot (165°F) and smooth. No Pueblo chiles on hand? Use roasted Hatch or poblano.

Food safety. Discard dairy dips left at room temperature more than 2 hours (1 hour above 90°F). Keep the queso on a warm setting.