Crispy Baked Wings, Buffalo Butter

Method

1. Pat the wings completely dry with paper towels, then toss them in a large bowl with the baking powder, salt, garlic powder and pepper until each piece wears a thin, even, white film.
2. Set the wings skin-side up and not touching on two wire racks set inside rimmed sheet pans, and refrigerate uncovered on the bottom shelf for at least 1 hour (this chill is not in the 95 minutes), or overnight if you are prepping ahead.
3. Heat the oven to 250°F with racks in the upper and lower thirds, and bake the wings for 30 minutes to render the fat. Raise the oven to 425°F.
4. Bake 40 to 45 minutes more, flipping the wings and swapping the pans at the halfway point, until the skin is deep golden and blistered and a drumette reads 185°F or higher.
5. While the wings bake, stir the yogurt, blue cheese, lemon juice and a pinch of salt and pepper into a chunky dip and chill it.
6. Melt the butter with the hot sauce in a small saucepan over low heat, whisking about 3 minutes until glossy and thick enough to coat a spoon.
7. Toss the hot wings with the sauce in a big bowl and serve right away with the celery and dip.

Food safety. Discard wings and dip left out more than 2 hours (1 hour above 90°F).