Compound Butter Trio: Herb, Garlic & Miso

Method

1. This makes three logs of 8 tablespoons each, 24 servings of about 1 tablespoon. Heat the oven to 400°F, slice the top off the garlic head, drizzle with the olive oil, wrap in foil, and roast 40 minutes until the cloves are golden and soft as paste.
2. Let the garlic cool 10 minutes, then squeeze the cloves out. Meanwhile, let the butter soften to about 65°F, when a finger leaves a clean dent without sinking in, and divide it into three bowls, 1 stick each.
3. Herb butter: mash the first stick with the shallot, parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice and ½ tsp salt until smooth and evenly flecked.
4. Garlic butter: mash the second stick with the roasted garlic, rosemary and ¼ tsp salt until no clumps of garlic remain.
5. Miso butter: mash the third stick with the miso, scallions and sesame seeds until smooth. It needs no added salt.
6. Spoon each butter onto a sheet of parchment, shape it into a log about 1½ inches thick, and roll it up tight, twisting the ends like a candy wrapper. Chill at least 1 hour until firm.
7. Slice coins off the log onto hot steak, grilled corn, fish or roasted vegetables. Refrigerate up to 2 weeks (the garlic butter, 1 week), or freeze up to 3 months.

Food safety. Roasted garlic held in butter: keep that log refrigerated, use within 1 week or freeze it, and never leave it at room temperature. Miso is sometimes made with barley, so check the label if you avoid gluten.