Charred Olathe Corn with Pueblo Chile

Method

1. Heat a dry 12-inch cast-iron skillet over high for 3 minutes, until a drop of water skitters and vanishes. Add the oil, then the corn in an even layer.
2. Leave it untouched for 3 minutes, until the kernels pop and the bottom is spotted dark brown. Kernels pop and spit, so keep your face back and use a splatter screen if you have one. Stir, spread out again, and repeat twice more, about 9 minutes total, until a third of the kernels are charred.
3. Reduce to medium and stir in the butter, garlic, chile and salt. Cook 1 to 2 minutes, until the butter foams and coats the corn.
4. Off the heat, stir in the lime zest and juice. Taste and add salt if the corn tastes flat.
5. Spoon into a bowl, crumble the cotija over the top, and scatter with cilantro.